In LaLa Films’s latest video, they take us back to 1910 and show us what hair and makeup looked like in the Dominican Republic. That volume and glowing skin carries all through today, but which is your favorite?
In the 1910s, headwraps were essential. This accentuated the face and gave the spotlight to those high cheekbones ✨.
According to research, African-American consumers will spend nearly $2 billion on hair-care products, this year alone. And although a lot of that expenditure goes toward products aimed at caring for natural hair —like shampoo, conditioner and styling products, which are also very important— a lot of $$$ is also being spent on wigs and extensions —of terrible quality, may I add. These black women grew tired of fighting and fussing with wigs and hair extensions of bad quality, so they created their own businesses to fix the problem.
Up until recently, products like wigs and extensions were primarily produced by people outside of the black community. And perhaps that’s why there were so many issues.
According to Mintel, between 2015 and 2019, the use of braids and extensions by Black consumers in the U.S. grew 64% and the use of wigs spiked 79%. It’s also Black women who are seen wearing the film lace frontals “Oba wigs” and drawstring ponytails and yet, a lot of companies are white or Asian-owned but Black-presenting. “It’s problematic and needs to be discussed,” says Stephanie Nolan, founder of XOXO Virgin Hair.
Nolan first came up with the idea to start her own hair business after working as a model in the early 200s.
Ever noticed how hairstylists spend the majority of prep time fussing and fighting with weaves and wigs before even being able to put them on? “They would have less-than-desirable experiences working with hair extensions or wigs that just weren’t cooperating,” says Nolan. “And it would end up really dragging out photoshoots.”
She had experimented with weaves in her personal life too, and in more than just a few occasions, the hair she bought just didn’t meet her expectations.
“I know that the everyday woman also doesn’t have time to fuss with their hair in the morning because she has to be at work at 8:30 in the morning,” she says. “And spending a lot of time on hair just takes away from being able to eat breakfast, being able to commute, so many things.” So she started her own company in 2014, aiming to release a product that would be convenient, easy to use and most importantly, of high quality.
Heat Free Hair by Ngozi Opara
Ngozi Opara owned a hair salon in Washington D.C. around the time when the natural hair movement started to take off. And she started to see a lot of clients that wanted to grow out their natural hair —which more often than not had been straightened or relaxed. They didn’t want to cut off their hair, so thy opted for sew-ins instead. “At the time, there weren’t any extension products on the market that would blend properly for women with coily hair textures (think 3B and 4C),” Opara says. “Clients were using virgin hair, but the only available options all came in straight, wavy and loose curly textures.”
The textures available meant that Opara had to straighten her clients’ hair in order to get it to blend properly, and she wanted to be able to manipulate their hair without using any heat. “I set myself up to be the first company to [make] virgin hair exclusively for natural hair textures.”
In 2013 Opara moved to China to learn about the manufacturing process.
After six months in China, she learned that not only did the factories have no concept of how the product they were making was being used, but also that a lot of the people producing the wigs didn’t know how to create textured hair without using chemicals. After a lot of tests, roundtable discussions and educating, they eventually got to a place of understanding and were able to create a product all parties were proud of. Now, Opara owns her own factory in China —with more than 50 employees.
Gina Knight, an influencer and wig designer based in the U.K., noticed that the same issue was prevalent in hair extensions across the pond.
Just as Opara hadn’t been happy with the texture of virgin hair for wigs, Knight couldn’t find options with hair similar to her own texture. “Having to have more of a Eurocentric wig just wasn’t me,” Knight says.
Black entrepreneurship in the wig and extension space is picking up speed but there’s still a lot of work to be done.
“We are the ones who are utilizing [the product] the most, we’re making it modern, we’re making it so that other races want to get in on it and want to wear wigs,” Knight explains in conversation with Fashionista. “But I think people need to be honest with the fact that, in the supply chain, we don’t have a stronghold,” she says. “Along the line, it does fall out of the hands of Black-owned because we have to source from all over.”
Many companies realized there was a market, and they jumped on it without considering the group they’re marketing to.
That’s probably what’s most upsetting about how the industry has evolved since these entrepreneurs first started their businesses. “When I created my brand, I had this customer in mind, I had my clients at the time in mind, I had myself in mind,” Opara says. “I shared the same pain points as the people who would benefit from my product and I didn’t even necessarily know it was going to take off, I just wanted to help solve a problem.” It’s unfortunate, she says, because the companies with more power take opportunities away from black female founders that are creating these products for their community.
It’s important to support Black women and their businesses so even more companies can thrive.
“I feel like it’s my duty almost to try to encourage people to support Black businesses because I know the value that it has for future entrepreneurs,” explains Opara. “But I also feel like, at least for myself as a consumer, I want to know that the brand I’m buying from is a brand that actually cares about me and not just about the money that they’re making from me.”
Having curly hair comes with an extra responsibility that must be taken seriously. If you’ve got a head full of curls, you can’t just jump out of the shower, put your hair in a chongo and go about your day. No, your luscious locks need extra care to be their absolute best. Moisturizing, braiding, brushing, styling, combing and so on. Whether you keep it curly or flat-ironed it straight, your pelo already needs a lot of regular TLC. That’s just during mild weather; don’t get us started on the extra lengths you have to go to in order to care for it when it gets extra cold.
Let’s just say three words: dull, dry and brittle. Sadly, this is what your curls could be reduced to thanks to the blistering chill of the winter months.
However, it doesn’t have to be that way. We’ve complied a list of the best ways to keep your curls cute and healthy during the chilliest times of the year. So, check this list out and wear those beautiful curls with pride, mija.
1. Conditioning can be cleansing.
Twitter / @unwash
If you haven’t ditched your shampoo for co-washing yet, you might want to give it a shot. Most shampoos have harmful sulfates in them and hair that is very wavy, curly or textured can be damaged by this. Instead, try a good co-wash conditioner and use that to replace your shampoo. It will cleanse while providing lots of moisturizer and re-hydration while removing excess oil, dirt and product build up.
2. Hair masks = weekly TLC
Twitter / @garnierusa
Hair masks are super hydrating conditioning treatments that can be used once a week. These formulas can revitalize your curls and repair any damage done between your treatments. You’ll love how super silky your hair will feel after you wash one of these masks away. There are tons of different formulas with distinct ingredients that all offer varying benefits. Try a few and find your fav!
3. Your hair needs protein, too.
Twitter / @botanika_beauty
Just like our bodies, protein makes our hair strong. So, naturally, our curls could use a little protein boast every once in a while. Try doing a protein treatment at the beginning of winter (every 4 to 6 weeks following that) and you will see an improvement on breakage. Use a deep conditioner afterwards and you’ll be good to go.
4. A good de-tangling spray will save your life.
Twitter / @cantubeauty
Windy conditions and harsh temperatures are no fun for your curls but that’s no reason for you to punish them. Make upkeep easy by finding a de-tangling spray that will tame tangles and part knots in seconds. Add it into your am and pm routines and you’ll notice a substantial difference and your scalp will appreciate the act of kindness.
5. Try out hair oils for your curls.
Twitter / @bombacurls
For curl health, hydration is the name of the game. During these cold, dry months, you want to keep you scalp moisturized but you definitely don’t want to over do it and drown your curls. There are various kinds of hair oils and their ingredients offer everything from stress relief to a dandruff-free head of hair. Try a few but be sure to find a light formula that won’t weigh you down.
6. Give a diffuser a chance.
Twitter / @conair
There’s a misconception that heat harms hair but that isn’t completely true. In fact, for your curls, a healthy blast of heat is just what they need during these winter months. Whether you have a diffuser or a hooded dryer, feel free to use it daily to revitalize your curls and give them a lively bounce.
7. A leave-in conditioner is mandatory.
Twitter / @cantubeauty
We know that dryness and breakage is a big issue during the winter so most of the tricks you’ll look to will attempt to add hydration to your hair. A leave-in conditioner is guaranteed to do that. However, it will also add volume to your ‘do and will work through your daily knots and tangles. It will also drastically reduce that breakage issue. Your curls are practically begging for this product.
8. Lay your head down on luxury before you go mimis.
Twitter / @slipsilkpillowcase
The best way to care for your curly hair is to have a great night’s sleep. If you’re up all night tossing and turning, you’ll be up in the morning with a head full of tangles. Instead, invest in feather pillows that are soft and always feel like they’re on the cool side. Top them off with a set of especially smooth silk pillow cases. You’ll wake up feeling like a Disney Princess.